SAT 14TH JAN DAY 93 LIVINGSTONE BACKPAKERS, LIVINGSTONE ZAMBIA
Well what a night thunder and lightening all night it seemed the thunder was all around us, they certainly have some serious storms around here.
In the morning all is clear and we pack up and head for Zambia. Leaving Namibia was very easy, even entering Zambia was easy. Lots of different taxes to pay and a visa for Zambia. Its an expensive place to get into.
Got through in around one and a half hours which is pretty good. We cross the new bridge into Zambia and head for Livingstone via a quick look at the Kazangula ferry. We planned to stay at Fawlty Towers but they don’t take our type of vehicle so we go to there sister camp the Livingstone Backpakers..not so nice as we camp in the car park. What no river to look out onto?
Still they have a pool and wifi. Tomorrow we visit the falls.
Well what a night thunder and lightening all night it seemed the thunder was all around us, they certainly have some serious storms around here.
In the morning all is clear and we pack up and head for Zambia. Leaving Namibia was very easy, even entering Zambia was easy. Lots of different taxes to pay and a visa for Zambia. Its an expensive place to get into.
Got through in around one and a half hours which is pretty good. We cross the new bridge into Zambia and head for Livingstone via a quick look at the Kazangula ferry. We planned to stay at Fawlty Towers but they don’t take our type of vehicle so we go to there sister camp the Livingstone Backpakers..not so nice as we camp in the car park. What no river to look out onto?
Still they have a pool and wifi. Tomorrow we visit the falls.
The awsome Victoria Falls
SUN 15TH JAN DAY 94 AS ABOVE
O miles
Went across the road to a local bar complete with pool table and television. Some very bad pool players mainly because they argue all the time and are competing for space with the guys watching Man.utd playing Bolton (premier league gets everywhere). No seats so a man gets us a couple of beer crates to seat on “In Zambia we sit on crates, welcome.”
Julie is the only female in the place apart from the barmaid but nobody seems to care (unlike in Morocco where it wouldn’t be allowed) and we enjoy a couple of Castle beers but not the football as Utd win 3-0.
Taxi to the Falls, we have visited them before from Zimbabwe over ten years ago but we cannot come all this way and see them again. The water is lower than our previous visit so the spray is not so big but some af the views are better because we can see the gorge better. Amazing place, our photos and video will not do it justice that’s for sure. Got our water proofs out (coutresy of Pat and Eugene) and follow the paths around the Falls. Victoria Falls Bridge still has the bungee jumpers on it although it was closed for a while because a women got hurt when the bungee snapped!
Met an unofficial guide, a Zimbabwean who we new would try and flog us something but we took the tour with him anyway. Brought a souvenir Zimbabwean dollar note. We are now billionaires! We have a 50,000,000,000 note.
Nice fish and chips lunch back in Livingstone before chilling in the late afternoon.
O miles
Went across the road to a local bar complete with pool table and television. Some very bad pool players mainly because they argue all the time and are competing for space with the guys watching Man.utd playing Bolton (premier league gets everywhere). No seats so a man gets us a couple of beer crates to seat on “In Zambia we sit on crates, welcome.”
Julie is the only female in the place apart from the barmaid but nobody seems to care (unlike in Morocco where it wouldn’t be allowed) and we enjoy a couple of Castle beers but not the football as Utd win 3-0.
Taxi to the Falls, we have visited them before from Zimbabwe over ten years ago but we cannot come all this way and see them again. The water is lower than our previous visit so the spray is not so big but some af the views are better because we can see the gorge better. Amazing place, our photos and video will not do it justice that’s for sure. Got our water proofs out (coutresy of Pat and Eugene) and follow the paths around the Falls. Victoria Falls Bridge still has the bungee jumpers on it although it was closed for a while because a women got hurt when the bungee snapped!
Met an unofficial guide, a Zimbabwean who we new would try and flog us something but we took the tour with him anyway. Brought a souvenir Zimbabwean dollar note. We are now billionaires! We have a 50,000,000,000 note.
Nice fish and chips lunch back in Livingstone before chilling in the late afternoon.
Me looking a twat (not unusual you say) at Vic. falls
MON 16TH JAN DAY 95 KARIBA BUSH CAMP,SIANSOWA ON LAKE KARIBA S17 27.035 E27 22.938
215 miles
Left Livingstone via the atm (another 1,000,000 kwatcha) and Shoprite of course for essential supplies like beer wine and bread.
A nice new tarred road took us towards Choma where we planned to stop for the night but we didn’t see anywhere suitable so carried on towards Lake Kariba.
Missed the first turn of but turned right in Botake and headed down towards the lake that has Zambia on one side and Zimbabwe on the other. The river was dammed in 1935 and was the largest of its kind at the time, now Zambia has enough electricity via the HEP for itself and exports electricity to Zimbabwe.
The last 30km is on a dirt road and thankfully the rains are late this year otherwise it could have been out with the shovel I think.
Kariba Bush Camp has a crocodile farm on it and has introduced some game into its land, a long drive but well worth it. Views across the lake to Zimbabwe, zebra,vervet monkeys, bushbuck wander through the camp. Some of the zebras came within 15m of us.
Brought some firewood and managed to get the wood fire going a bit quicker this time but you have to plan ahead with it that’s for sure.
No loud music tonight just the sounds of the birds and animals.
215 miles
Left Livingstone via the atm (another 1,000,000 kwatcha) and Shoprite of course for essential supplies like beer wine and bread.
A nice new tarred road took us towards Choma where we planned to stop for the night but we didn’t see anywhere suitable so carried on towards Lake Kariba.
Missed the first turn of but turned right in Botake and headed down towards the lake that has Zambia on one side and Zimbabwe on the other. The river was dammed in 1935 and was the largest of its kind at the time, now Zambia has enough electricity via the HEP for itself and exports electricity to Zimbabwe.
The last 30km is on a dirt road and thankfully the rains are late this year otherwise it could have been out with the shovel I think.
Kariba Bush Camp has a crocodile farm on it and has introduced some game into its land, a long drive but well worth it. Views across the lake to Zimbabwe, zebra,vervet monkeys, bushbuck wander through the camp. Some of the zebras came within 15m of us.
Brought some firewood and managed to get the wood fire going a bit quicker this time but you have to plan ahead with it that’s for sure.
No loud music tonight just the sounds of the birds and animals.
Zebra next to Lake Kariba
TUE 17TH JAN DAY 96 AS ABOVE
0 miles
Slept like a baby last night and only woken by the sprinkler coming on at 5.30.
Kettle boiled in record time, maybe I have finally cracked the firelighting process. Going to be a lazy day in camp after the usual box organising and quick clean of the Landy. No shortage of water here tats for sure.
We are told that the “rains” are poor so far this year, normally it pours down every day and the rivers that we crossed are normally flooded in January. Well that’s good for us as maybe the trip to South Luangwa n.p. will be easier than we thought. Lets hope the rains don’t come for a while longer.
0 miles
Slept like a baby last night and only woken by the sprinkler coming on at 5.30.
Kettle boiled in record time, maybe I have finally cracked the firelighting process. Going to be a lazy day in camp after the usual box organising and quick clean of the Landy. No shortage of water here tats for sure.
We are told that the “rains” are poor so far this year, normally it pours down every day and the rivers that we crossed are normally flooded in January. Well that’s good for us as maybe the trip to South Luangwa n.p. will be easier than we thought. Lets hope the rains don’t come for a while longer.
The craft centre at the camp
WED 18TH JAN DAY 97 THE MOORINGS. LUSAKA RD. S16 11.352 E 27 32.700
125 Miles
Very hot and humid last night, the most uncomfortable so far on our journey, but then we are in a valley next to Lake Kariba. Last year they had so much rain that they had to open all 4 gates on the dam which caused flooding down river, this year although the rains are late they have already opened 1 gate much to the annoyance of the people around the lake as the level is falling already. They are gambling on decent rains it seems.
Away and back on the dirt track by 8.15 and it didn’t seem so bad going back. Glad to be away from the valley as the humidity has dropped as has the temperature, now its only 27 degrees.
Easy drive to a camp called The Moorings (nowhere near a river or sea), its run by a Dutch family as a working farm which has a “Womans Centre” teaching crafts and a small clinic which is free to the farm workers.
We are joined by some backpackers so at least we have some company tonight.
Veg curry again tonight and a few tins of Castle Lager!
125 Miles
Very hot and humid last night, the most uncomfortable so far on our journey, but then we are in a valley next to Lake Kariba. Last year they had so much rain that they had to open all 4 gates on the dam which caused flooding down river, this year although the rains are late they have already opened 1 gate much to the annoyance of the people around the lake as the level is falling already. They are gambling on decent rains it seems.
Away and back on the dirt track by 8.15 and it didn’t seem so bad going back. Glad to be away from the valley as the humidity has dropped as has the temperature, now its only 27 degrees.
Easy drive to a camp called The Moorings (nowhere near a river or sea), its run by a Dutch family as a working farm which has a “Womans Centre” teaching crafts and a small clinic which is free to the farm workers.
We are joined by some backpackers so at least we have some company tonight.
Veg curry again tonight and a few tins of Castle Lager!
THUR 19TH JAN DAY 98 PIONEER CAMP, 10KM N OF LUSAKA
131 Miles
Had some rain overnight so put the tent away quick between showers, it rained on and of all day, not heavy just enough to make it miserable.
The camp has some small rondavels which came in handy for our breakfast this morning.
Towards Lusaka we come across more lorries after the Kafue turn, probably due to the fact that Zimbabwe is just down the road. Pass through more typical African towns with a few small shacks and the charcoal sellers trying to eek a living.
In the city the drivers don’t seem too bad and we manage to get through in one piece and without getting lost…a first for us in an African capital.
Pioneer camp finds ourselves on our own, a strange place some 6 km from the main road. Who starts these camps up? Who normally stays at them?
Oh visited a large shopping mall just north of Lusaka were the better of Zambians seem to shop and have there fill of “fast food”. Went to buy a book but they are too expensive. Had chicken and chips for lunch.
131 Miles
Had some rain overnight so put the tent away quick between showers, it rained on and of all day, not heavy just enough to make it miserable.
The camp has some small rondavels which came in handy for our breakfast this morning.
Towards Lusaka we come across more lorries after the Kafue turn, probably due to the fact that Zimbabwe is just down the road. Pass through more typical African towns with a few small shacks and the charcoal sellers trying to eek a living.
In the city the drivers don’t seem too bad and we manage to get through in one piece and without getting lost…a first for us in an African capital.
Pioneer camp finds ourselves on our own, a strange place some 6 km from the main road. Who starts these camps up? Who normally stays at them?
Oh visited a large shopping mall just north of Lusaka were the better of Zambians seem to shop and have there fill of “fast food”. Went to buy a book but they are too expensive. Had chicken and chips for lunch.
We got very close to some lions
FRI 20TH JAN DAY 99 CHIMWEMA LODGE, PETAUKA
257 miles
Spitting with rain this morning so had breakfast under the shelter of the camps bar/pool area. Quick wipe down of the tent and packed up before the rain started again.
Back on The Great East Road towards Pekauke some 250 miles away, very few villages now but the road was still good and we went over rolling hills so green and filled with trees, certainly no shortage of fire wood here. Lots of maize fields and lots of men struggling up hills with massive bags of charcoal on there bikes too.
Mad drivers going too fast especially the bus drivers, no wonder there are so many wrecks at the side of the road..
The sun came out for a while but not for long. We found Zulu Kraal campsite which was just a fild with grass two feet high and rubbish toilets so gave it a miss and found Chimwema Lodge in Petauke. Had some good food there aswell.
257 miles
Spitting with rain this morning so had breakfast under the shelter of the camps bar/pool area. Quick wipe down of the tent and packed up before the rain started again.
Back on The Great East Road towards Pekauke some 250 miles away, very few villages now but the road was still good and we went over rolling hills so green and filled with trees, certainly no shortage of fire wood here. Lots of maize fields and lots of men struggling up hills with massive bags of charcoal on there bikes too.
Mad drivers going too fast especially the bus drivers, no wonder there are so many wrecks at the side of the road..
The sun came out for a while but not for long. We found Zulu Kraal campsite which was just a fild with grass two feet high and rubbish toilets so gave it a miss and found Chimwema Lodge in Petauke. Had some good food there aswell.
and elephants
SAT 21ST JAN DAY 100 TRACK AND TRAIL CAMP IN SOUTH LUANGWA NAT. PARK S13 06.05 E31 47.42
196 miles
Yes its our 100th day on the road and no it doesn’t seem that log since we left home, where have the last 14 weeks or so gone?
To celebrate we headed for South Luangwa N.P. and hoped that the rains hadn’t closed the road as some people have said. The road to Chipata was good tarmac over more rolling hills and then open filds where more maize and other crops are grown. Loads of mangos and bananas for sale at the side of the road too.
We refuelled in Chipata and found the road to S. Luangwa (with no help from our guide book) the road has been rebuilt or so we thought! We’d expected a dirt road and that we’d arrive in camp by 2.00. To start new tar then the road had a diversion for a few km’s then back to tar, so we stopped for lunch at the side of the road before carrying on.
A few km’s later the tar ended and stayed that way until the last 16kn. What a mess they are rebuilding it but meantime there are diversions each side of the “new” road.which in the rainy season has holes full of sticky mud. The Landy has got well and truly dirty as we plough through the mud holes and over the potholes. Oh well this is part of the fun as they say.
We arrive in camp around 4ish and set up camp after we are shown around, The place has a pool overlooking the Luangwa river with chalets alongside it, very nice. We camp for us$7,50 each and are told to watch out for the hippos and elephants strolling through the camp at night. No visit to the loo tonight then!
Tomorrow we will go on a game drive but for tonight its cook and wash up before dark me thinks.
196 miles
Yes its our 100th day on the road and no it doesn’t seem that log since we left home, where have the last 14 weeks or so gone?
To celebrate we headed for South Luangwa N.P. and hoped that the rains hadn’t closed the road as some people have said. The road to Chipata was good tarmac over more rolling hills and then open filds where more maize and other crops are grown. Loads of mangos and bananas for sale at the side of the road too.
We refuelled in Chipata and found the road to S. Luangwa (with no help from our guide book) the road has been rebuilt or so we thought! We’d expected a dirt road and that we’d arrive in camp by 2.00. To start new tar then the road had a diversion for a few km’s then back to tar, so we stopped for lunch at the side of the road before carrying on.
A few km’s later the tar ended and stayed that way until the last 16kn. What a mess they are rebuilding it but meantime there are diversions each side of the “new” road.which in the rainy season has holes full of sticky mud. The Landy has got well and truly dirty as we plough through the mud holes and over the potholes. Oh well this is part of the fun as they say.
We arrive in camp around 4ish and set up camp after we are shown around, The place has a pool overlooking the Luangwa river with chalets alongside it, very nice. We camp for us$7,50 each and are told to watch out for the hippos and elephants strolling through the camp at night. No visit to the loo tonight then!
Tomorrow we will go on a game drive but for tonight its cook and wash up before dark me thinks.
Where is my cloth?
SUN JAN 22ND DAY 101 AS ABOVE
0 miles
Had a celebratory cigar and a brandy last night to mark the 100th day.
I repaired the top shelf that had shaken to bits whilst Julie tidied the boxes and checked our food supplies. Some of our food is low but have vastly over estimated our tea and coffee requirements, have loads left. Can recommend Birds custard powder in a packet, just add water brilliant.
Our game drive was four hours from 4.00 to 8.00 followed by dinner at the riverside restaurant. Saw loads of game lots more than we expected for the time of year as the grass and bushes are tall. Its nice to see the game parks at a different time of year because in the past we have travelled in the dry season.
Highlight was two small herds of elephants with some young ones too. Also a pride of lions were just at the side of the road. We spotted crocs and hippos at a water hole amongst the many birds.
The elephants had been culled in the 70’s because they were damaging the mopane woodland so much that it wouldn’t grow back. They sold the ivory and the meat. Something that would be illegal now. They still have some poaching of elephants and all the rhinos have gone.
Well worth the money and a nice way to spend our hundredth day…almost like we had planned it! Can highly recommend Track and Trail Camp, it’s a few minutes from the park entrance, the prices are reasonable and the staff so friendly.
0 miles
Had a celebratory cigar and a brandy last night to mark the 100th day.
I repaired the top shelf that had shaken to bits whilst Julie tidied the boxes and checked our food supplies. Some of our food is low but have vastly over estimated our tea and coffee requirements, have loads left. Can recommend Birds custard powder in a packet, just add water brilliant.
Our game drive was four hours from 4.00 to 8.00 followed by dinner at the riverside restaurant. Saw loads of game lots more than we expected for the time of year as the grass and bushes are tall. Its nice to see the game parks at a different time of year because in the past we have travelled in the dry season.
Highlight was two small herds of elephants with some young ones too. Also a pride of lions were just at the side of the road. We spotted crocs and hippos at a water hole amongst the many birds.
The elephants had been culled in the 70’s because they were damaging the mopane woodland so much that it wouldn’t grow back. They sold the ivory and the meat. Something that would be illegal now. They still have some poaching of elephants and all the rhinos have gone.
Well worth the money and a nice way to spend our hundredth day…almost like we had planned it! Can highly recommend Track and Trail Camp, it’s a few minutes from the park entrance, the prices are reasonable and the staff so friendly.
The Chipata to South Luangwa road
MON JAN 23RD DAY 102 MAMA RULAS NR CHIPATA. S13 34.92 W32 36.59
82 miles
Lovely nights sleep and only woken by the baboons playing on our bonnet. Had a chat with the camp owners who have been at Track and Trail for eight years before hitting that lousy road back to Chipata.
It didn’t seem quite so back going back but its rates as one of the worst we have found in Africa along with the Kumasa to coast road in Ghana and the el ayoun road in Mauritania.
The work seems to have come to a halt, maybe due to the weather ar maybe because almost every earth mover had a mechanic working on it.
Mama Rulas is a well known overlanders haunt and we find another Landy in camp and are joined by an overland truck coming through Malawi. We had just finished dinner when the rain came so had to shelter in the bar! Interesting chat with the owners about politics in Zambia and Zimbabwe. Also we learnt that the fuel shortage in Malawi has got worse and there are long queues at the few petrol stations that have fuel. Glad we spoke about it as Malawi is where we are heading tomorrow.
The overland truck didn’t have any problems as he filled up in Tanzania, but he said he saw loads of queues at the pumps!
82 miles
Lovely nights sleep and only woken by the baboons playing on our bonnet. Had a chat with the camp owners who have been at Track and Trail for eight years before hitting that lousy road back to Chipata.
It didn’t seem quite so back going back but its rates as one of the worst we have found in Africa along with the Kumasa to coast road in Ghana and the el ayoun road in Mauritania.
The work seems to have come to a halt, maybe due to the weather ar maybe because almost every earth mover had a mechanic working on it.
Mama Rulas is a well known overlanders haunt and we find another Landy in camp and are joined by an overland truck coming through Malawi. We had just finished dinner when the rain came so had to shelter in the bar! Interesting chat with the owners about politics in Zambia and Zimbabwe. Also we learnt that the fuel shortage in Malawi has got worse and there are long queues at the few petrol stations that have fuel. Glad we spoke about it as Malawi is where we are heading tomorrow.
The overland truck didn’t have any problems as he filled up in Tanzania, but he said he saw loads of queues at the pumps!