Sunset over Lake Malawi
TUE 24TH JAN DAY 103 STEPS CAMPSITE SENGA BAY MALAWI
197 Miles
The truck lefty at 7.00 so it left the camp nearly empty, the other couple were going to Malawi but because of the fuel problem are giving it a miss. We will fill up at the border and see how things go.
Leaving Zambia was extremely easy. Write details in log book, fill in departure slip, stamp given in passport. Next fill in another log book, hand over carnet, get stamp and that’s it.
Entering Malawi was just as easy. Entry slip, stamp in passport (no visa required. Next the officer saw our carnet took it and stamped it..finished. Brought a months compulsory insurance and we were on our way. If you don’t have a carnet you have to pay for a t.i.p. (3,000mk).
Malawi seems to be farmed everywhere and lots of the goods are sold at the road side. Loads of maize of course and tomatoes and mangos. Very green still and loads of cyclists everywhere.
In Lilongwe we had lunch and goy lost. Well we always get lost in the African cities don’t we? An hour or so later and with help from several Malawians we end up on the correct road towards Senga Bay.
I got another fine. This time for speeding, “Well officer there is a big hill and I have a Land Rover so I need a run up” Oh well I was speeding that’s 5000mk to you and me. Not sure how the local can pay it though.
Rolling hills interrupted by occasional road side checkpoints that get a bit tedious. “Hello how are you?..” “Fine, how are you?.” “fine.” “wgere are you going etc etc etc.
The charcoal sellers struggle up the hills with overloaded cycles and the villages are scattered amongst the hills, some with only half a dozen huts.and we slow to the required 50kmh of course for every village. It’s a bit of a drag to Steps camp but we arrive and the guard opens the gate to let us in. What do we see. An empty sandy beach and Lake Malawi facing us. Wow what a place to camp.
197 Miles
The truck lefty at 7.00 so it left the camp nearly empty, the other couple were going to Malawi but because of the fuel problem are giving it a miss. We will fill up at the border and see how things go.
Leaving Zambia was extremely easy. Write details in log book, fill in departure slip, stamp given in passport. Next fill in another log book, hand over carnet, get stamp and that’s it.
Entering Malawi was just as easy. Entry slip, stamp in passport (no visa required. Next the officer saw our carnet took it and stamped it..finished. Brought a months compulsory insurance and we were on our way. If you don’t have a carnet you have to pay for a t.i.p. (3,000mk).
Malawi seems to be farmed everywhere and lots of the goods are sold at the road side. Loads of maize of course and tomatoes and mangos. Very green still and loads of cyclists everywhere.
In Lilongwe we had lunch and goy lost. Well we always get lost in the African cities don’t we? An hour or so later and with help from several Malawians we end up on the correct road towards Senga Bay.
I got another fine. This time for speeding, “Well officer there is a big hill and I have a Land Rover so I need a run up” Oh well I was speeding that’s 5000mk to you and me. Not sure how the local can pay it though.
Rolling hills interrupted by occasional road side checkpoints that get a bit tedious. “Hello how are you?..” “Fine, how are you?.” “fine.” “wgere are you going etc etc etc.
The charcoal sellers struggle up the hills with overloaded cycles and the villages are scattered amongst the hills, some with only half a dozen huts.and we slow to the required 50kmh of course for every village. It’s a bit of a drag to Steps camp but we arrive and the guard opens the gate to let us in. What do we see. An empty sandy beach and Lake Malawi facing us. Wow what a place to camp.
WED 25TH JAN DAY 104 AS ABOVE
0 MILES
Bit of rain last night and very hot too, had a lie in waiting for the rain to stop. As I was dozing of Julie screamed out. “What’s up?” “There was a baboon he had climbed up the ladder and was staring straight at me”.
Lazy day, just had a stroll around the hotel next door.
0 MILES
Bit of rain last night and very hot too, had a lie in waiting for the rain to stop. As I was dozing of Julie screamed out. “What’s up?” “There was a baboon he had climbed up the ladder and was staring straight at me”.
Lazy day, just had a stroll around the hotel next door.
Well how do attach electrics to a tree?
THUR 26TH JAN DAY 105 FAT MONKEYS CAMP, CAPE MCLEAR
S14 01.469 E34 50.503
110 MILES
Well what a drive to Cape Mclear and what a view at Flat Monkeys! We are camped 20m from the lakeside under some mango trees, this will do.
Only 110 miles but quite a trek. Signs sent us down a dirt track and we got some strange looks from the locals as we struggled down through the mud. Later we found out why they looked at us so strange. It was because there was a perfectly good tar road that we could have taken, oh well. Back on tar until the last 18km where it was mud and dirt most of the way to Monkey Island, up hill and down dale as they say. The road is being rebuilt so next year it will be an easy route.
A couple of backpackers are in camp and that’s about it, more staff than customers again.
S14 01.469 E34 50.503
110 MILES
Well what a drive to Cape Mclear and what a view at Flat Monkeys! We are camped 20m from the lakeside under some mango trees, this will do.
Only 110 miles but quite a trek. Signs sent us down a dirt track and we got some strange looks from the locals as we struggled down through the mud. Later we found out why they looked at us so strange. It was because there was a perfectly good tar road that we could have taken, oh well. Back on tar until the last 18km where it was mud and dirt most of the way to Monkey Island, up hill and down dale as they say. The road is being rebuilt so next year it will be an easy route.
A couple of backpackers are in camp and that’s about it, more staff than customers again.
Our bbq on the island
FRI 27TH JAN DAY 106 AS ABOVE
O miles
We went on a boat trip to one of the islands which seemed a good idea yesterday but this morning the lake was rough and Julie didn’t really appreciate the trip to the island! Had fish bbq’d for us and fed the fish eagles on the way back.
Lazing around in the afternoon contemplating were to go next with the fuel situation in mind of course. We can get fuel on the black market but not only is it expansive the quality is variable. The last thing we want is dirty fuel in the system.
O miles
We went on a boat trip to one of the islands which seemed a good idea yesterday but this morning the lake was rough and Julie didn’t really appreciate the trip to the island! Had fish bbq’d for us and fed the fish eagles on the way back.
Lazing around in the afternoon contemplating were to go next with the fuel situation in mind of course. We can get fuel on the black market but not only is it expansive the quality is variable. The last thing we want is dirty fuel in the system.
SAT 28TH JAN DAY 107 MABUYA CAMP, LILONGWE S13 59.97 E33 45.57
139 Miles
Left Fat Monkeys and noted in the visitors book someone had written “Lovely place but the owner is a bit weird” Couldn’t agree more.
The road back had dried out so it was a lot easier and we headed to Lolongwe for the night. We climbed up over the hills to over 5,500ft, very steep in places pacing more mango sellers we are sure that Malawians live on maize and mangos.
Great scenery and we suspect that all of Malawi is the same, if only the fuel shortage was over we would stay a lot longer.
Mabuya camp was very busy and VERY NOISY at night we didn’t get to sleep until 2 ish, felt like going around in the morning banging a saucepan to wake everyone up.
Met Ian and Lara who are overlanding from S.Africa to London and had just come from Mozambique looking a bit worse for wear as they had a nightmare travelling because of the rains. Spent the night swapping stories and ideas and talking of the people we had met. They are both vets and are going to seek work in England. Ian told us a story of how they discovered an injured bushbuck at the side of the road, apparently hit by a vehicle. Ian killed it to stop it suffering and then decided that the meat was to good to waste so they took the hind legs with them. Mmm do the humane thing and then eat the bugger.
Maybe we will meet on the road again.
139 Miles
Left Fat Monkeys and noted in the visitors book someone had written “Lovely place but the owner is a bit weird” Couldn’t agree more.
The road back had dried out so it was a lot easier and we headed to Lolongwe for the night. We climbed up over the hills to over 5,500ft, very steep in places pacing more mango sellers we are sure that Malawians live on maize and mangos.
Great scenery and we suspect that all of Malawi is the same, if only the fuel shortage was over we would stay a lot longer.
Mabuya camp was very busy and VERY NOISY at night we didn’t get to sleep until 2 ish, felt like going around in the morning banging a saucepan to wake everyone up.
Met Ian and Lara who are overlanding from S.Africa to London and had just come from Mozambique looking a bit worse for wear as they had a nightmare travelling because of the rains. Spent the night swapping stories and ideas and talking of the people we had met. They are both vets and are going to seek work in England. Ian told us a story of how they discovered an injured bushbuck at the side of the road, apparently hit by a vehicle. Ian killed it to stop it suffering and then decided that the meat was to good to waste so they took the hind legs with them. Mmm do the humane thing and then eat the bugger.
Maybe we will meet on the road again.