Morocco
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Day 4
Camping Sur Europa to Camping Azilan Chefchaouen, Morroco N35 10.198 W5 16.249
138 Miles
Well here we go then Africa beckons . Arrive at the port of Algeciras and hour before the departure as advised by the ticket seller and we were one of only 2 vehicles waiting. Now are we in the correct place?
Eventually some others arrive a mixture of Spanish workers of to Ceuta to do some work and some bikers, one on a nice Harley Davidson and three others on “Desert” bikes. One of the bikers was about 6ft 6ins and built like a brick s*** house, I must buy him a drink in case we run into trouble and he is around.
Ferry arrived and on we go,we find ourselves parked next to the bikers (nice) and head of to Ceuta some 50 mins away. A bit of a sway left to right and it was funny watching Julie stagger with her drink from the bar to her seat.
Ceuta (a small Spanish enclave on the northern tip of Morocco) was busy good job we are used to Spanish drivers as its everyone for themselves as we aim for a petrol station to fill up with tax free diesel (€1,09/lit).
Next we planned on a lunch in Ceuta but could not find anywhere to park so it was straight to the border…..Here we go then this will be fun!
Spanish authorities wave us through then it slows up a little, a guy with an “official” badge offers to help us (he’ll be wanting a tip then) through the border and to be honest it went fine. O.K. so they sussed my copy of the V5 document so I had to dig out the original but otherwise all the help from other overlanders prepared us well.
Got through in less than half an hour. Think we were lucky that there were not many people crossing with us
HELP FOR OTHER TRAVELLERS
1) Ignore touts selling entry slips (we got ours with ferry tickets but they are free)
2) Queue up to the right and just b4 first booth.
3) Take passports and entry slips to booth to get passport stamped.
4) At next booth take passports,V5 doc (original) and three part customs form (available at booth ) to get stamped. Keep the parts given back as you need them when you leave Morocco.
5) Back to vehicle and drive through to next official who asks if you have anything to declare and had a brief look in our vehicle. He asks his boss for another stamp.
6) Move on to barrier and another guy had a look at papers and that’s it away you go.
We did have a green card for insurance which we showed at customs but she didn’t seem interested. If you don’t have a green card maybe you will need to buy insurance.
Some other travellers have had to.
Well on to camp site for the night, went on the toll road (10dh) and on up the scenic mountain road to Chefchaouen managing to avoid the crazy drivers that overtake on blind bends. We just chug along admiring the view as they flash past.
It’s a steep climb the last bit up to the campsite where a young Moroccan greeted us. Quite a few campervans all lined up by the electric points and when I asked about squeezing in between them I got a “well we do have quite a group sitting here sometimes” in other words get lost. Not the best of greetings from our first contact with English people. Funny because we know some very nice ex campervaners!!
Set up camp and reflected on a “very successful day “as our friend would say.
One ferry crossing one border crossing and our first campsite in Morocco.
Site facilities are o.k. but no hot water but we have to get used to that. Got offered some hash hish from a guy over the fence but politely refused, had a game of backgammon instead….must be our age.
Day 5
Chefchaouen to Moulay Bouselham Camping International N34 52.500 W8 17.306
139 miles
We thought that Camposol had a lot of dogs, well Morocco can beat it hands down, all night there was a competition to see what dog could howl the longest.
Marmite sandwich and yoghurt for breakfast before breaking camp to visit town and get some local currency. No luck with the money will try later but had a good look around before departing towards the coast.
Roads don’t seem to have numbers on them just the occasional town but with the help of our gps we get nearer to our destination. Then we had one of those moments….which way left or right. Right then that’s a left. The road started of o.k. but got progressively worse with the tarmac breaking up. We found it better to have one wheel on the road and one on the verge. Of course we had no doubt that we were on the right road as we came to another sign and we started talking to each other again. So that’s 5 days and not lost once. Take note.
Camped right next to bay 5 mins walk to town, just a few other travellers around. Got cash from the bank all very quickly done and had dinner at Restaurant Nassim….spag bol for me cheese omelette for Julie with a nice spicy dip and bread to start with. Tasted great lets hope I think the same tomorrow morning!
Camping Azilan Chefchaouen Morocco
Chefchaouen
View from campsite at Mouley Bouselham
Day 6
Mouley Bouselham to Hotel Kasbah nr. skhirt N33 53.309 W7 09.909
104 miles
Short drive today and we will stay in Hotel Kasbah for an early birthday present for Julie and we will be near to Rabat so that we can get our Mauritanian ans Malian visas tomorrow.
Although its on the beach the hotel is a bit over rated,clean enough but isolated. Still it has a nice comfy bed we must make the most of it.
Had our first street food. Moroccan style hot dog I suppose you'd call it,very good too. Very few people in the hotel nearly have the place to ourselves. Visas tomorrow .
Day 7 As above
Up at seven and after sitting in the Rabat traffic for half an hour we find the Mauritanian embassy with a small queue outside of say 6 or 7 people, all French speaking. Door opens at 8.30 and the forms are handed out,struggle with our French interpretation of the form but so do the French speakers so we are not alone. Eventually hand in our form with copies of passports and 2 photos each only to be told that we have to return Monday to collect our visas!!!!!!!
Great what now,its Thursday and we wanted to try for the Mali visa tomorrow. Everyone is fed up and comparing there situations. I know we have no strict timetable but now we have 4 days to kill and then we can get our Mali visas.
What makes it worse is that the Mali embassy is only 100 metres along the road and we had hoped to get them both today.
On our way back to our hotel we raise our spirits by finding a Mac Donalds Yep proper food. Deux Moroccan big macs then. We will have to sort out what to do over the following days so back to the internet and try to find a place to stay.
Mouley Bouselham to Hotel Kasbah nr. skhirt N33 53.309 W7 09.909
104 miles
Short drive today and we will stay in Hotel Kasbah for an early birthday present for Julie and we will be near to Rabat so that we can get our Mauritanian ans Malian visas tomorrow.
Although its on the beach the hotel is a bit over rated,clean enough but isolated. Still it has a nice comfy bed we must make the most of it.
Had our first street food. Moroccan style hot dog I suppose you'd call it,very good too. Very few people in the hotel nearly have the place to ourselves. Visas tomorrow .
Day 7 As above
Up at seven and after sitting in the Rabat traffic for half an hour we find the Mauritanian embassy with a small queue outside of say 6 or 7 people, all French speaking. Door opens at 8.30 and the forms are handed out,struggle with our French interpretation of the form but so do the French speakers so we are not alone. Eventually hand in our form with copies of passports and 2 photos each only to be told that we have to return Monday to collect our visas!!!!!!!
Great what now,its Thursday and we wanted to try for the Mali visa tomorrow. Everyone is fed up and comparing there situations. I know we have no strict timetable but now we have 4 days to kill and then we can get our Mali visas.
What makes it worse is that the Mali embassy is only 100 metres along the road and we had hoped to get them both today.
On our way back to our hotel we raise our spirits by finding a Mac Donalds Yep proper food. Deux Moroccan big macs then. We will have to sort out what to do over the following days so back to the internet and try to find a place to stay.
Hotel Kazbah
Day 8 Moulay Bousselham
116 mules
Well back to Moulay Bousselham for the nest 3 nights killing time until we can collect our visas on Monday.
Drove via Kenitra trying to find a campsite but couldn’t find it so we were welcomed back to the Camping International site by the owner, he didn’t seem to surprised to see us so maybe we aren’t the first to have this visa waiting problem.
We ventured out to the small town for something to eat and found a restaurant where the waiter spoke Spanish! It made things easier to order food that’s for sure but the food was rubbish. We sat people watching and sipped on our beer in full sight of the mosque which we were surprised was allowed as the books say it’s a no no. Mind you they do hide the glass in a serviette to try and hide it I suppose.
Day 9 as above
0 miles
HAPPY BIRTHDAY JULIE Its Julies nth birthday today so time to open her cards and presents. Thanks to all who sent cards,we brought them with us. Thanks for the presents too. They are taking pride of place on the dashboard.
Coffee and croissant for breakfast or should I say Cafe au lait et croissant in my bestest French. I must get the phrase book out and learn a bit more French.
The biggest camper van (if you can call it one) arrived this afternoon,more like a coach really complete with trailer with quad bike and car inside it….yes that big. But you have to ask “are they happy?”
Day 10 as above
0 miles
Had a bit of rain last night so its sand everywhere until everthing dries out, all the campers look a bit fed up with the weather.
I cooked Julie a belated birthday breakfast of fried eggs on toast before heading out for a walk around the town trying to find some fresh produce so we can cook something later. Fruit and veg. are really cheap and so is the bread (1.5dh about 15 cents). Looking forward to moving on as we have wasted enough time waiting for the visas.
Day 11 Monday 24th Oct Hotel Panoramic Nr. Rabat
112 miles
At last we have our visas picked our passports up from the Mauritanian embassy (after stopping of for another macdonalds…hey we may not find another one). A long queue of people were waiting but it soon disappeared and we all have a good look at the visa entry to make sure its correct. Straight down the road to the Mali embassy and expect the guard to stop us but he has gone walkabout, so we walk up to the door knock and enter. Big welcome what a difference, shake of hands, sit down sir and our
Passports were taken from us to be collected the following morning.
The rules seem to change regularly with these visas,some people have got the Mauritanian visa the mext day and the Mali visa in one day but now it’s a case of Hand in your passport to the Mauritanian embassy in the morning (8.30-10.30) and collect 2 days later. Mali visa is hand in one day and collect the following morning.
Still 2 visas in the bag time to get out of Rabat.
Raining hard so decide against camping as the only site we could find (100m from Hotel Kasbah is not up to much and in the rain it would be worse. Found Hotel Panoramic around10km north of Hotel Kasbah. Not a brilliant place especially for 400dirhams but somewhere to stay for one night. Not that we got much sleepas we think the place is used as a local brothel…no knocks at our door thank god.!!
112 miles
At last we have our visas picked our passports up from the Mauritanian embassy (after stopping of for another macdonalds…hey we may not find another one). A long queue of people were waiting but it soon disappeared and we all have a good look at the visa entry to make sure its correct. Straight down the road to the Mali embassy and expect the guard to stop us but he has gone walkabout, so we walk up to the door knock and enter. Big welcome what a difference, shake of hands, sit down sir and our
Passports were taken from us to be collected the following morning.
The rules seem to change regularly with these visas,some people have got the Mauritanian visa the mext day and the Mali visa in one day but now it’s a case of Hand in your passport to the Mauritanian embassy in the morning (8.30-10.30) and collect 2 days later. Mali visa is hand in one day and collect the following morning.
Still 2 visas in the bag time to get out of Rabat.
Raining hard so decide against camping as the only site we could find (100m from Hotel Kasbah is not up to much and in the rain it would be worse. Found Hotel Panoramic around10km north of Hotel Kasbah. Not a brilliant place especially for 400dirhams but somewhere to stay for one night. Not that we got much sleepas we think the place is used as a local brothel…no knocks at our door thank god.!!
Day 12 Tue 25th Oct Hotel Plaissance Meknes
170 miles
Got away from the hotel sharpish and then picked up the passports from the Mali embassy and of we went to Meknes. Except it took ages to find our way out of the city.
Meknes is the third Imperial city of Morocco and pretty big as well. The Camping International D’Agdal site that we were looking for it in the middle of the city and other overlanders have said that its difficult to find. They weren’t kidding. We got within a few hundred meters of it according to the gps but no closer, so we stopped to ask a guard outside some official building and he told us that its closed GREAT. He suggested a small site near to Volublis but he wasn’t sure exactly where it was so of we go looking for a place to stay.
A big moment in our trip DAY 12 and we chalk up our first “official lost in Africa” day. How many times we went around the outskirts of the city I cannot remember ,several locals pointed to us to go in the opposite direction but of course we weren’t sure weather to trust them We should have. Anyway after following a bus which must be going somewhere (not sure where) we find our way back to the main road and end up finding a really nice hotel (€35) 5 mins taxi ride from the old city. Must try to stop spashing out on these hotels though.
Spent the evening in the old city soaking up the atmosphere and takin the historic buildings. Had a weird chicken with rice to eat,the rice had nuts, olives and some other bits in it…. Strange. Met a coupe from Poland Barbara and Tony who live in Cambridge and were interested in our trip they are thinking of doing an overland trip themselves sometime but not Africa but in Asia.
For other people coming to Meknes camping is out it seems so if your budjet allows we would recommend the hotel, it’s a bit out of town but it only costs 15dirham each way to town.
170 miles
Got away from the hotel sharpish and then picked up the passports from the Mali embassy and of we went to Meknes. Except it took ages to find our way out of the city.
Meknes is the third Imperial city of Morocco and pretty big as well. The Camping International D’Agdal site that we were looking for it in the middle of the city and other overlanders have said that its difficult to find. They weren’t kidding. We got within a few hundred meters of it according to the gps but no closer, so we stopped to ask a guard outside some official building and he told us that its closed GREAT. He suggested a small site near to Volublis but he wasn’t sure exactly where it was so of we go looking for a place to stay.
A big moment in our trip DAY 12 and we chalk up our first “official lost in Africa” day. How many times we went around the outskirts of the city I cannot remember ,several locals pointed to us to go in the opposite direction but of course we weren’t sure weather to trust them We should have. Anyway after following a bus which must be going somewhere (not sure where) we find our way back to the main road and end up finding a really nice hotel (€35) 5 mins taxi ride from the old city. Must try to stop spashing out on these hotels though.
Spent the evening in the old city soaking up the atmosphere and takin the historic buildings. Had a weird chicken with rice to eat,the rice had nuts, olives and some other bits in it…. Strange. Met a coupe from Poland Barbara and Tony who live in Cambridge and were interested in our trip they are thinking of doing an overland trip themselves sometime but not Africa but in Asia.
For other people coming to Meknes camping is out it seems so if your budjet allows we would recommend the hotel, it’s a bit out of town but it only costs 15dirham each way to town.
Day 13 Wed 26th Oct Camping Timney 20km from Midelt N 32 45.08 W 4 55.09
126 miles
Found a note on our windscreen from Barbara and Tony wishing us luck on our travels and asking if we’d be interested in a trip across Asia including Russia. Now that would be different.
Drove to the city and strolled around a while. We would have had a coffee but women don’t seem to frequent the cafes and I don’t think Julie would have been happy standing outside.
Lovely scenic drive over the Middle Atlas mountains and we could see snow on the High Atlas in the distance. The fields are all well cultivated with vegetables and this seems to be a big onion area as they has tons of them stored by tying them up together and placing them across walls with straw and plastic sheeting over them.
Camping Timney is a good mid point halt between Meknes and Merzouga and a nicely set up camp. They have rooms too if you want. Friendly staff and good showers and loos make it a place to recommend. Tried our first Moroccan mint tea, very nice. Good food in the restaurant too.
Our first mechanical breakdown occurred today if you can call it that. One of the door handles jammed, hope that all repairs are so easy to fix.
In the evening 7 campervans turned up…do they all travel in packs?
126 miles
Found a note on our windscreen from Barbara and Tony wishing us luck on our travels and asking if we’d be interested in a trip across Asia including Russia. Now that would be different.
Drove to the city and strolled around a while. We would have had a coffee but women don’t seem to frequent the cafes and I don’t think Julie would have been happy standing outside.
Lovely scenic drive over the Middle Atlas mountains and we could see snow on the High Atlas in the distance. The fields are all well cultivated with vegetables and this seems to be a big onion area as they has tons of them stored by tying them up together and placing them across walls with straw and plastic sheeting over them.
Camping Timney is a good mid point halt between Meknes and Merzouga and a nicely set up camp. They have rooms too if you want. Friendly staff and good showers and loos make it a place to recommend. Tried our first Moroccan mint tea, very nice. Good food in the restaurant too.
Our first mechanical breakdown occurred today if you can call it that. One of the door handles jammed, hope that all repairs are so easy to fix.
In the evening 7 campervans turned up…do they all travel in packs?
Day 14 Thur 27th Oct Ksar Sania Nr. Merzouga
191 miles
Another scenic drive over the mountains up to 7200ft in parts and through barren plains full of nothing. Went through the Ziz valley passing some cyclists struggling up the hills. When we stopped to take a picture its amazing how the locals appear from nowhere trying to sell some fossils or recommend a lodge.
More diesel today but it doesn’t quite hurt as much filling up when its only 65cents/lire. Had a coffee break just past Er Rachidia and were amazed how much building work is going on in Morocco. Er Rachidia had well it must have been 80 trucks parked up with building gear on at one site. There are kids everywhere going to and from school, there is definitely a population problem happening in Morocco.
The road was good all the way to Merzouga and the drivers noticeably slower than in the cities. The last 30 miles or so were a drag before we reached Ksar Sania (50dh) recommended by fellow overlanders but worth the drive a lovely laid out camping/lodge next to the dunes. The buildings are made from mud and straw with some bamboo and poles helping them to stand up.
Had our best meal yet in Morocco all 3 courses were great. First a cold stater of different mashed vegetables with different spices then a beef tajine followed by a date tart. Very nice.
191 miles
Another scenic drive over the mountains up to 7200ft in parts and through barren plains full of nothing. Went through the Ziz valley passing some cyclists struggling up the hills. When we stopped to take a picture its amazing how the locals appear from nowhere trying to sell some fossils or recommend a lodge.
More diesel today but it doesn’t quite hurt as much filling up when its only 65cents/lire. Had a coffee break just past Er Rachidia and were amazed how much building work is going on in Morocco. Er Rachidia had well it must have been 80 trucks parked up with building gear on at one site. There are kids everywhere going to and from school, there is definitely a population problem happening in Morocco.
The road was good all the way to Merzouga and the drivers noticeably slower than in the cities. The last 30 miles or so were a drag before we reached Ksar Sania (50dh) recommended by fellow overlanders but worth the drive a lovely laid out camping/lodge next to the dunes. The buildings are made from mud and straw with some bamboo and poles helping them to stand up.
Had our best meal yet in Morocco all 3 courses were great. First a cold stater of different mashed vegetables with different spices then a beef tajine followed by a date tart. Very nice.
Day 15 Fri 28th Oct As above
0 miles
Blew a gale again last night and it rained so when we climb out of our tent we are surprised to see a brilliant blue sky and everthing dry.
Lazy day today, trying to sort the website out, but such a poor connection we gave up. Julie noticed diesel leaking from under the Landy and it looks like the tank is leaking near the fuel sender unit. I clean the area as best I can and eventually we manage to get a local mechanic to have a look but he is not sure that it is leaking from there. Its such a tiny leak we decide to just monitor the situation over the next few days as he says that it will take a day to drain, remove and refit the tank.
0 miles
Blew a gale again last night and it rained so when we climb out of our tent we are surprised to see a brilliant blue sky and everthing dry.
Lazy day today, trying to sort the website out, but such a poor connection we gave up. Julie noticed diesel leaking from under the Landy and it looks like the tank is leaking near the fuel sender unit. I clean the area as best I can and eventually we manage to get a local mechanic to have a look but he is not sure that it is leaking from there. Its such a tiny leak we decide to just monitor the situation over the next few days as he says that it will take a day to drain, remove and refit the tank.
DAY 16 Sat 29th Oct Camping Le Festival Todra Gorge.
143 miles
No sign of diesel on the ground. We go to reception to pay up and just at that moment 3 camels walk past the terrace area what a photo that would have been!
Head to Todra Gorge managing to find our way back to the main road with the help of a hand drawn map that we made as we came to Merzouga and drive through more barren land with the occasional village breaking the journey. How do these people make a living from such poor land?
Turn right at Tenihir and into the Gorge…amazing scenery, lush green pastures being farmed between the towering gorge,lots of options to lodge or camp as we head on to Le Festival. One lodge is the other side of the stream and you have to walk across the water to get to your rooms.
We head on through a couple of tiny villages and as we come to an opening in the gorge we see a lodge on the left and I comment “Wouldn’t it be great if we were staying there?”.
Well we were, and although they don’t allow camping anymore we decide to stay as its only 230 dirhams half board each (€20). Turns out well worth it great dinner and breakfast and entertainment from the staff in the evening. The owner tried to get me to play his Berber guitar…no chance, how can you play a guitar with no frets and a head that is round?
143 miles
No sign of diesel on the ground. We go to reception to pay up and just at that moment 3 camels walk past the terrace area what a photo that would have been!
Head to Todra Gorge managing to find our way back to the main road with the help of a hand drawn map that we made as we came to Merzouga and drive through more barren land with the occasional village breaking the journey. How do these people make a living from such poor land?
Turn right at Tenihir and into the Gorge…amazing scenery, lush green pastures being farmed between the towering gorge,lots of options to lodge or camp as we head on to Le Festival. One lodge is the other side of the stream and you have to walk across the water to get to your rooms.
We head on through a couple of tiny villages and as we come to an opening in the gorge we see a lodge on the left and I comment “Wouldn’t it be great if we were staying there?”.
Well we were, and although they don’t allow camping anymore we decide to stay as its only 230 dirhams half board each (€20). Turns out well worth it great dinner and breakfast and entertainment from the staff in the evening. The owner tried to get me to play his Berber guitar…no chance, how can you play a guitar with no frets and a head that is round?
Day 17 30th Oct Camping Le Relais Marrakesh
260 Miles N31 42.408 W7 59.4
Nice breakfast before we depart to Ouarzazate where we planed to camp for the night but as the road was so good and we arrived at 12.30 we decided to head on to Marrakesh. The campsite looked good and was only a few minutes walk to the town so I hope we don’t regret missing out on it.
The road to Marrakesh took us over the High Atlas and the road peaked at nearly 5,000ft. What a drive over the mountains certainly not for the faint hearted. Its difficult not to look at the view but when your driving its not advised The barrier leaves a lot to be desired and as for the crazy drivers overtaking in mad places and trying to overtake lorries driving up in the High Atlas becomes an adventure all on its own.
Tried to fill up with diesel but the station we pick has none and we only find fuel when we are nearly in Marrakesh which is unusual because fuel has been very easy to find so far.
We find Camping Le Relais fairly easily thanks to Julies map reading and a bit of luck and set up camp for the night. Tomorrow we will visit the Medina , by taxi not by car.
260 Miles N31 42.408 W7 59.4
Nice breakfast before we depart to Ouarzazate where we planed to camp for the night but as the road was so good and we arrived at 12.30 we decided to head on to Marrakesh. The campsite looked good and was only a few minutes walk to the town so I hope we don’t regret missing out on it.
The road to Marrakesh took us over the High Atlas and the road peaked at nearly 5,000ft. What a drive over the mountains certainly not for the faint hearted. Its difficult not to look at the view but when your driving its not advised The barrier leaves a lot to be desired and as for the crazy drivers overtaking in mad places and trying to overtake lorries driving up in the High Atlas becomes an adventure all on its own.
Tried to fill up with diesel but the station we pick has none and we only find fuel when we are nearly in Marrakesh which is unusual because fuel has been very easy to find so far.
We find Camping Le Relais fairly easily thanks to Julies map reading and a bit of luck and set up camp for the night. Tomorrow we will visit the Medina , by taxi not by car.
Day 18 31st Oct As Above
0 miles
Cold again last night hope it warms up today. Chilled out most of the day updating the website at last and tidying the Landy up.
In the evening we got a taxi to the Djemaa El-Fna which is the part of Marrakesh that we associate with Morocco…large open square filled with vendors selling food, drinks ,leather and fabrics along with rugs of course. We brought some over priced fresh fruit and nuts and an orange juice whilst strolling around but to be honest we were a bit disappointed with the Djemaa. Maybe we are not city people I don’t know or maybe after reading and hearing about it from other people we were expecting too much.
The traffic was manic DO NOT DRIVE IN THE CENTRE OF MARRAKESH you will not come out again the same person. Got a taxi back to camp and the driver was not a happy bunny we agreed a price of 100dh (10 more than the trip into town) but I don’t think h new exactly how far out of town the site was. He tried it on a bit but a price is a price.
DAY 19 1ST Nov CAMPING SIDI MAGDOL, ESSAOUIRA
N31 29.5 W 9 45.8
120 MILES
HAPPY 25TH ANNIVERSARY TO US!!!
My god 25 years and still going strong. Opened our cards and prezzies, thanks to everyone for your kind words and congratulations.
Met a guy called Philippe who was a tour guide in N.W.Africa but since tourism has ben hit by security issues he has turned his hand to photography. He was on his way to Mauritania and then was going to fly back to France. He gave us loads of help/info on Mauritania. Where to go,what routes to take and a couple of contacts for us. Don’t know if we will be as adventurous as he has been but time will tell.
Broke camp and drove to Essaouira a coastal town some 120 miles away, a nice easy drive today and the campsite was freshly painted..they must have known we were coming. Had a stroll along the front and had pizza and a couple of beers for our anniversary dinner! I know how to treat a girl.
N31 29.5 W 9 45.8
120 MILES
HAPPY 25TH ANNIVERSARY TO US!!!
My god 25 years and still going strong. Opened our cards and prezzies, thanks to everyone for your kind words and congratulations.
Met a guy called Philippe who was a tour guide in N.W.Africa but since tourism has ben hit by security issues he has turned his hand to photography. He was on his way to Mauritania and then was going to fly back to France. He gave us loads of help/info on Mauritania. Where to go,what routes to take and a couple of contacts for us. Don’t know if we will be as adventurous as he has been but time will tell.
Broke camp and drove to Essaouira a coastal town some 120 miles away, a nice easy drive today and the campsite was freshly painted..they must have known we were coming. Had a stroll along the front and had pizza and a couple of beers for our anniversary dinner! I know how to treat a girl.
DAY 20 2ND Nov CAMPING INTERNATIONAL AGADIR (or is it agadoo)
N 30 25.47 W9 36.48
120 MILES
Another easy day after driving to town and having a coffee, buying some bread and cakes. Drove along the coast to Agadir taking lunch overlooking the wide sandy stretches of coast.
Saw the famous tree climbing goats (what do you mean you have never heard of them). They climb the trees for the fruit of the Argan trees that produce a type of olive oil. The tress are unique to SW Morocco. See this site is an education too.
Brought loads of shopping at another Marjan shopping centre and filled up with fuel before setting up camp. The campsite is in a handy spot by the sea and the Boulevard but a bit run down and the loos leave a lot to be desired and it’s a bit pricey at 98dirhams a night (€9).
Had a stroll before having chicken in curry sauce with rice..not very Moroccan eh. Then it was cards and backgammon.
DAY 21 THUR 3RD NOV AS ABOVE
0 MILES
Explored the seafront this morning but the rain came so its back to camp to plan our next few days,its getting near to heading straight south for Mauritania where the adventure really begins because Morocco is a place to break you gently into Africa.
Made an important discovery this morning Casablanca Beer…a decent beer at last.
Lousy weather all day so just sat around killing time,
FRUDAY 4TH NOV DAY 22 CAMPING SIDI IFNI N29 23.079 W10 10.379
120 MILES
Rained all night but brightened up in the morning so our kit almost dried out before the rain started again and it was a race to put the tent and kit away which we lost. Oh well will dry out at our next stop.
Left Agadir not impressed at all, the weather hasn’t helped but not much of a place to visit (Tina will agree with that). Traffic was its usual standard,everyone for themselves. Don’t these motorcyclists realise that it will hurt if I hit them?
Drove to Tiznit and then headed towards the coast again to Sidi Ifni, passing a few strange towns on the way, we think they are Moroccan summer homes as they seem deserted and there is nothing around but scrubland. This is later confirmed buy a couple we met who said the locals make all their money in the summer and then take it easy for 9 months.
The campsite we had in mind to stay at was closed and was being rebuilt as holiday villas (n29 26.801 w 10 06.800) so we carried on into town where another site was “summer” only this turned out to a stroke of luck as Sidi Ifni campsite is an excellent site,on the beach plenty of space and clean facilities (not any shade but that’s not a problem at the moment).
Met a couple travelling in a VW camper painted in camouflage colours! Not a good idea. He is a Kiwi and she is from Poland and they are doing Maorocco on a whim. Nice couple, very laid back.
Chicken stir fry tonight after a stroll around the Spanish looking village which has a hotel called “ Hotel Suerte Loca” which you will all know what means.
SAT 5TH NOV DAY 23 FORT BOU JERIF N29 04.930 W10 19.870
81 miles
The old town is a bit hidden from the beach which meant that we were out of the wind for a change. Brought some more bread, a tip for other travellers don’t but the baguettes they are tough as old boots stick to the local round loafs, they only cost a few cents.
Lots of streets still have the original Spanish names and some cafes are still Spanish named, shame they don’t speak Spanish, although we are told that some of the older generation still do. Nice little town well worth the stop with the good campsite.
Drove to Fort Bou Jerif where a French guy has built a camp and hotel close to an old French Foreign Legion fort. It’s a 9km drive of road on a rough track to get there. The Fort was worth a look around but the campsite was a bit bleak and no food was on offer so it was brave it out with the wind again.
81 miles
The old town is a bit hidden from the beach which meant that we were out of the wind for a change. Brought some more bread, a tip for other travellers don’t but the baguettes they are tough as old boots stick to the local round loafs, they only cost a few cents.
Lots of streets still have the original Spanish names and some cafes are still Spanish named, shame they don’t speak Spanish, although we are told that some of the older generation still do. Nice little town well worth the stop with the good campsite.
Drove to Fort Bou Jerif where a French guy has built a camp and hotel close to an old French Foreign Legion fort. It’s a 9km drive of road on a rough track to get there. The Fort was worth a look around but the campsite was a bit bleak and no food was on offer so it was brave it out with the wind again.
SUNDAY 6TH NOV CAMPING ATLANTIQUE SIDI IFNI N28 29.674 W11 20.179
135 Miles
Yoghurt ,nuts , fruit and toast for breakfast before paying up to have a look around the ruined fort which is the only reason to come here (apart from the nice clean hot showers).
Of to Tan Tan via Goulmin where we got a bit lost but after asking a couple of kids which way to go we were back on the correct route. At least the kids have good taste in football here..non of this Man Utd its Barcelona,Real Madrid or Chelsea!!
On entering Tan Tan we got stopped for the first time and gave our first ‘fiche’ out (a fiche is a slip of paper with our personnel details on along with place of entry and next town we are going to and saves waiting while they write everthing down in a log). Funny thing is that up til now they stop locals but wave us through but now they wave locals through and stopped us.
Didn’t see the infamous police that are supposed to be waiting at the roundabouts to fine tourists.Carried on to the beach and found Camping Atlantique where a friendly Moroccan lady showed us around the site. This site looked a lot better than the one along the road and we had the benefit of some shelter from the wind. This pleased us even more when a couple of hours later five Toyota Landcruisers or Jeeps if you like turned up and scouted around for some shelter,to late!! They then all parked up in a line next to us……do the French have to “be together” all the time.
135 Miles
Yoghurt ,nuts , fruit and toast for breakfast before paying up to have a look around the ruined fort which is the only reason to come here (apart from the nice clean hot showers).
Of to Tan Tan via Goulmin where we got a bit lost but after asking a couple of kids which way to go we were back on the correct route. At least the kids have good taste in football here..non of this Man Utd its Barcelona,Real Madrid or Chelsea!!
On entering Tan Tan we got stopped for the first time and gave our first ‘fiche’ out (a fiche is a slip of paper with our personnel details on along with place of entry and next town we are going to and saves waiting while they write everthing down in a log). Funny thing is that up til now they stop locals but wave us through but now they wave locals through and stopped us.
Didn’t see the infamous police that are supposed to be waiting at the roundabouts to fine tourists.Carried on to the beach and found Camping Atlantique where a friendly Moroccan lady showed us around the site. This site looked a lot better than the one along the road and we had the benefit of some shelter from the wind. This pleased us even more when a couple of hours later five Toyota Landcruisers or Jeeps if you like turned up and scouted around for some shelter,to late!! They then all parked up in a line next to us……do the French have to “be together” all the time.
MONDAY 7TH NOV DAY 25 LE BEDOUIN CAMP Near Dowra N27 27.720 W13 03.106
167 Miles
Watched everyone pack up, the roof tents looked easy and quick to pack away, some were sprung loaded another had a handle to wind it closed and the coffee with brandy for breakfast looked good too.
The town was dead then we realised that yesterday Morocco celebrated the capture of Western Sahara so today is a day of.
Drove through barren land with sand drifting across the road which was perfect tar and mainly dead straight and had another police stop for a fiche along with a salute for a goodbye.
We stayed at Camp Le Bedouin some 4.5kn of piste (signposted just after the large pylons) and will spend the night in a Bedouin tent. Looks like camel tajine tonight then.
Oh one more thing our tow rope has been christened to help a couple of guys that decided to drive into a little stream…will that be the last time it gets used.
167 Miles
Watched everyone pack up, the roof tents looked easy and quick to pack away, some were sprung loaded another had a handle to wind it closed and the coffee with brandy for breakfast looked good too.
The town was dead then we realised that yesterday Morocco celebrated the capture of Western Sahara so today is a day of.
Drove through barren land with sand drifting across the road which was perfect tar and mainly dead straight and had another police stop for a fiche along with a salute for a goodbye.
We stayed at Camp Le Bedouin some 4.5kn of piste (signposted just after the large pylons) and will spend the night in a Bedouin tent. Looks like camel tajine tonight then.
Oh one more thing our tow rope has been christened to help a couple of guys that decided to drive into a little stream…will that be the last time it gets used.
TUE 8TH NOV DAY 26 CAMPING MOUSSAFIR Nr. DAKHLA
N23 45.85 W15 54.42
384 Miles (longest so far)
Left at 7.30 to try to get to Dakhla at a reasonable time, our Dutch guys were still asleep when we left (so much for an early start).
Passes through Laayoune and Boujdour ploughing on through boring featureless scenery. A good tar road still but very easy to loose concentration when there is nothing to look at.
Tried to buy some bread but was difficult to find anyone selling any and when we did find a store with some he didn’t want to sell it to us, maybe he keeps it for his regulars!
Many road blocks today some within 100 m off each other? Our fiches are running out will need to get some more copied. Then the dreaded dodgy policeman arrives. I should have known something was up when he asked me to get out of the Landy and show my insurance, log book and my driving licence. He couldn’t find anything wrong with the paperwork so he made up a complaint and said that I didn’t stop at the HALT sign!! Grrrrrr. So a choice, pay 45dr back at the police station or pay him 200dr (€18). So waste an hour or so in town or pay up and away we go. With a long drive ahead (he new that too as there is nothing between the police check and Dakhla) we paid up and moaned about it for the next hour.
More boring road as we turn towards the coast and Dakhla and drive across a massive bay….wow it was like something out of a sci fi film set…a massive flat plain of sand surrounded on three sides by rocky hills and the fourth side by the sea. I took a video but there is no way it will do the scene justice.
Loads of kite surfers in the sea and a couple of unofficial camps nearby but we head for town and find Camp Moussafir arriving around fourish.
Cheapest diesel so far 45cents/litre fill your boots.
N23 45.85 W15 54.42
384 Miles (longest so far)
Left at 7.30 to try to get to Dakhla at a reasonable time, our Dutch guys were still asleep when we left (so much for an early start).
Passes through Laayoune and Boujdour ploughing on through boring featureless scenery. A good tar road still but very easy to loose concentration when there is nothing to look at.
Tried to buy some bread but was difficult to find anyone selling any and when we did find a store with some he didn’t want to sell it to us, maybe he keeps it for his regulars!
Many road blocks today some within 100 m off each other? Our fiches are running out will need to get some more copied. Then the dreaded dodgy policeman arrives. I should have known something was up when he asked me to get out of the Landy and show my insurance, log book and my driving licence. He couldn’t find anything wrong with the paperwork so he made up a complaint and said that I didn’t stop at the HALT sign!! Grrrrrr. So a choice, pay 45dr back at the police station or pay him 200dr (€18). So waste an hour or so in town or pay up and away we go. With a long drive ahead (he new that too as there is nothing between the police check and Dakhla) we paid up and moaned about it for the next hour.
More boring road as we turn towards the coast and Dakhla and drive across a massive bay….wow it was like something out of a sci fi film set…a massive flat plain of sand surrounded on three sides by rocky hills and the fourth side by the sea. I took a video but there is no way it will do the scene justice.
Loads of kite surfers in the sea and a couple of unofficial camps nearby but we head for town and find Camp Moussafir arriving around fourish.
Cheapest diesel so far 45cents/litre fill your boots.
WED 9TH NOV DAY 27 AS ABOVE
17 miles
Nice and warm today and less wind last night, tried internet café in town but gave up as it was a poor connection, got another 30 fiches each (photo shop near hotel Sankermand) brought a few bits and bobs to eat and met a French woman (Natalie) living in Dakhla who used to live in Cape Town but now teaches French to the locals. She stopped us in the street after seeing the Landy and was very interested in our trip, turns out she has done the same trip herself and hopefully will e-mail us some places to stay en route. Apparently last month she told us that there was a massive riot in town and most people stayed at home for safety, the fight was between Moroccans and Sahararites and started over a football match, sounds familiar.
Seeing that there is a big army base in town and soldiers everwhere I am surprised that anyone would chance anything like that.
Clean up time again for the Landy. Filtered lots of water and checked all the oil levels as well.
Bumped into our Dutch friends again in town, what is the chance of that? They were heading for Mauritania today but it was 1.30 already and they have a long drive ahead of them. Good luck lads. Maybe we will see them again in Mauritania when they are on there way back?
17 miles
Nice and warm today and less wind last night, tried internet café in town but gave up as it was a poor connection, got another 30 fiches each (photo shop near hotel Sankermand) brought a few bits and bobs to eat and met a French woman (Natalie) living in Dakhla who used to live in Cape Town but now teaches French to the locals. She stopped us in the street after seeing the Landy and was very interested in our trip, turns out she has done the same trip herself and hopefully will e-mail us some places to stay en route. Apparently last month she told us that there was a massive riot in town and most people stayed at home for safety, the fight was between Moroccans and Sahararites and started over a football match, sounds familiar.
Seeing that there is a big army base in town and soldiers everwhere I am surprised that anyone would chance anything like that.
Clean up time again for the Landy. Filtered lots of water and checked all the oil levels as well.
Bumped into our Dutch friends again in town, what is the chance of that? They were heading for Mauritania today but it was 1.30 already and they have a long drive ahead of them. Good luck lads. Maybe we will see them again in Mauritania when they are on there way back?
THUR 10TH NOV DAY 28 HOTEL BARBAS N22 03.16 W16 44.50
183 miles
Last full day in Morocco, Mauritania tomorrow. Stayed at hotel Barbas a strange place in the middle of nowhere some 60 km from the border. Decided to have a decent bed for the night as it may be the last for a while.
Last night in camp a Belgian couple arrived ( sorry we are terrible with names but there 2 year old son is called Mikel) and we shared a beer whilst talking about each others plans. They are heading for Ghana and they told us that you cannot get visas for Ghana outside your home country. I hope they are wrong. We need to check this out a.s.a.p. else it will put a large spanner in the works.
Nice to chat to fellow overlanders and they are thin on the ground at the moment, hope we will meet more at Camp Abba in Mauritania.
183 miles
Last full day in Morocco, Mauritania tomorrow. Stayed at hotel Barbas a strange place in the middle of nowhere some 60 km from the border. Decided to have a decent bed for the night as it may be the last for a while.
Last night in camp a Belgian couple arrived ( sorry we are terrible with names but there 2 year old son is called Mikel) and we shared a beer whilst talking about each others plans. They are heading for Ghana and they told us that you cannot get visas for Ghana outside your home country. I hope they are wrong. We need to check this out a.s.a.p. else it will put a large spanner in the works.
Nice to chat to fellow overlanders and they are thin on the ground at the moment, hope we will meet more at Camp Abba in Mauritania.