WED 16TH NOV DAY 34 THE SLEEPING CAMEL BAMAKO, MALI
N12 37.52 W7 59.28
239 miles
Quiet night and very dark, a quick breakfast and we hit the road to Bamako.
Another toll road 500cfa and we pass Kati where the road deteriorates badly to broken tarmac as we enter Bamako. In the city all hell breaks lose where crazy motor cyclists and crazier taxi drivers battle through the streets.
We find the Sleeping Camel reasonably easy (first left after the bridge over the river Niger where we find a mixture of overlanders, British, S. African, Swedish, Dutch and Australian all swapping stories and searching for info. About travelling on.
On the way to Bamako we see people seemingly moving house on there donkey carts and large herds of well fed cattle as we pass through the villages.
N12 37.52 W7 59.28
239 miles
Quiet night and very dark, a quick breakfast and we hit the road to Bamako.
Another toll road 500cfa and we pass Kati where the road deteriorates badly to broken tarmac as we enter Bamako. In the city all hell breaks lose where crazy motor cyclists and crazier taxi drivers battle through the streets.
We find the Sleeping Camel reasonably easy (first left after the bridge over the river Niger where we find a mixture of overlanders, British, S. African, Swedish, Dutch and Australian all swapping stories and searching for info. About travelling on.
On the way to Bamako we see people seemingly moving house on there donkey carts and large herds of well fed cattle as we pass through the villages.
THUR 17TH NOV DAY 35 AS ABOVE
21 Miles
Beat the rush to the showers and boy did I need it, 3 days without a shower,
We drove to the Burkina Faso embassy to submit our visa application and the traffic was mad again, we’ll get a taxi to collect them this afternoon.
Had trouble getting money from atms tried three before we found one that worked.. Tomorrow we go for the Nogerian visa but first we need a photocopier as they ask for copies of every document we have..or so we are told. The Burkina visa only requires 2 photos and the application form and a load of CFA’s. (47,000 each).
Brought a couple of Malian cd’s and hang around the bar area as its Hog Roast night tonight for only €1,50 that will do nicely.
Had a race with Tillly and Sjakke to erect our tents and we lost badly, but then we do have a larger tent.
A couple of French guys turned up with two motor bikes and sidecars which caused a stir with the bikers, they looked like something from a second world war film set!
FRI 18TH NOV DAY 36 AS ABOVE
0 miles
Bread and marmite for breakfast. Went to the Nigerian embassy…great to communicate in English, he gave us his mobile number and we call him at two to see if they are ready.
Cleaned out the vehicle and said goodbye to the bikers Tily and Sjakke as they leave for Timbuktu.
Our visas are ready and we hand over more CFA’s (62,500 each) these visas eat away at our budget that’s for sure. The only things that they asked for was 2 photos, copy of Mali entry in passport and copy of passport details. Things change day to day so its best to take copies of everything just in case.
Found a supermarche to buy some food and restock our beer supplies and a shack to buy some veg. Chilli and rice for dinner. Bread and dripping tomorrow.
0 miles
Bread and marmite for breakfast. Went to the Nigerian embassy…great to communicate in English, he gave us his mobile number and we call him at two to see if they are ready.
Cleaned out the vehicle and said goodbye to the bikers Tily and Sjakke as they leave for Timbuktu.
Our visas are ready and we hand over more CFA’s (62,500 each) these visas eat away at our budget that’s for sure. The only things that they asked for was 2 photos, copy of Mali entry in passport and copy of passport details. Things change day to day so its best to take copies of everything just in case.
Found a supermarche to buy some food and restock our beer supplies and a shack to buy some veg. Chilli and rice for dinner. Bread and dripping tomorrow.
SAT 19TH NOV DAY 37 AS ABOVE
0 miles
Had a walk down our street to look at the banana market and at the Niger river that flows only a 100m from our site, got asked if we wanted a crate of bananas but politely refused. Everyone in Mali is so friendly the most friendly place so far.
Had to put my Land Rover shirt on today as we have a German couple in a Landcruiser staying at the moment, a bit of friendly banter between us. He truck carries 300litre of diesel, fancy topping that up?
We are staying on at the sleeping camel a few more days as the Ghana visa problem turns out not to be one. We will apply Monday and hopefully be back on the road Wednesday. Still it’s a great place to stay so we don’t mind.
Camp is getting empty as people move on, maybe we will meet them in Burkina Faso.
0 miles
Had a walk down our street to look at the banana market and at the Niger river that flows only a 100m from our site, got asked if we wanted a crate of bananas but politely refused. Everyone in Mali is so friendly the most friendly place so far.
Had to put my Land Rover shirt on today as we have a German couple in a Landcruiser staying at the moment, a bit of friendly banter between us. He truck carries 300litre of diesel, fancy topping that up?
We are staying on at the sleeping camel a few more days as the Ghana visa problem turns out not to be one. We will apply Monday and hopefully be back on the road Wednesday. Still it’s a great place to stay so we don’t mind.
Camp is getting empty as people move on, maybe we will meet them in Burkina Faso.
SUN 20TH DAY 38 AS ABOVE
0 Miles
Cake and a coffee at a local café and a bit of shopping, usual stuff beer and bread..
Had a bbq in the evening , we got invited by the Camp owner (not camp but the owner , you know what I mean). Strange mix of people, some residents of Mali others travellers but the worst character was the screaming brat causing havoc.
Met Alli a guide in Mali who chatted about tourism in Mali. We could fly from Bamako to Timbuktu for €200 each way or from Mopti to Timbuktu for €100 each way if we don’t want to drive it. We’ll see.
A swiss couple arrived (Astrid and Christian) in a defender 90, they are travelling to Ghana and then shipping to Southern Africa due to time restraints. They got a fine going into Mauritania for having two jerry cans on the vehicle, strange as we probably have more fuel in our tanks than they have.
0 Miles
Cake and a coffee at a local café and a bit of shopping, usual stuff beer and bread..
Had a bbq in the evening , we got invited by the Camp owner (not camp but the owner , you know what I mean). Strange mix of people, some residents of Mali others travellers but the worst character was the screaming brat causing havoc.
Met Alli a guide in Mali who chatted about tourism in Mali. We could fly from Bamako to Timbuktu for €200 each way or from Mopti to Timbuktu for €100 each way if we don’t want to drive it. We’ll see.
A swiss couple arrived (Astrid and Christian) in a defender 90, they are travelling to Ghana and then shipping to Southern Africa due to time restraints. They got a fine going into Mauritania for having two jerry cans on the vehicle, strange as we probably have more fuel in our tanks than they have.
MON 21ST NOV DAY 39 AS ABOVE
O Miles
Applied for our Ghana visa today and got told that we should apply in our home country. Tried to explain that we live in Spain but she just said that Spain have a British embassy. Anyway for an extra cfa20,000 each we can get one! So that’s another pile of cfa’s gone. A way round it is to extend your Mali visa to 3 months and then you are seen as a resident of Mali but that costs more anyway.
Lazy day around camp.
O Miles
Applied for our Ghana visa today and got told that we should apply in our home country. Tried to explain that we live in Spain but she just said that Spain have a British embassy. Anyway for an extra cfa20,000 each we can get one! So that’s another pile of cfa’s gone. A way round it is to extend your Mali visa to 3 months and then you are seen as a resident of Mali but that costs more anyway.
Lazy day around camp.
TUE 22ND NOV DAY 40 AS ABOVE
Shared a taxi with Lucy to the embassy to collect the visas (2000 cfa) and returned to camp an now that we have the 3 visas we can leave Bamako and we are ready for it.
Good place to stay but a week is long enough. Tomorrow after breakfast we head for Segou, then Mopti and Djenne.
Another lazy afternoon.
MON 21ST NOV DAY 39 AS ABOVE
O Miles
Applied for our Ghana visa today and got told that we should apply in our home country. Tried to explain that we live in Spain but she just said that Spain have a British embassy. Anyway for an extra cfa20,000 each we can get one! So that’s another pile of cfa’s gone. A way round it is to extend your Mali visa to 3 months and then you are seen as a resident of Mali but that costs more anyway.
Lazy day around camp.
O Miles
Applied for our Ghana visa today and got told that we should apply in our home country. Tried to explain that we live in Spain but she just said that Spain have a British embassy. Anyway for an extra cfa20,000 each we can get one! So that’s another pile of cfa’s gone. A way round it is to extend your Mali visa to 3 months and then you are seen as a resident of Mali but that costs more anyway.
Lazy day around camp.
WED 23RD NOV DAY 41 MOTEL SAVANE, SEGOU. N13 26.125 W 6 16.681
151 miles
Finally we leave the Sleeping Camel or the Camel Sleeping as the Malians call it and after doing a bit of shopping we head out of town and go to Segou some 150 miles away. Traffic was o.k. well o.k. for an African city and we manage to get out of town easily.
A few check points but no fuss until one guy asks us for insurance driving licence etc. etc. here we go again what next? Oh where is our “visite technique” Uh! Whats that. He means a Mali mot, which we haven’t got and as a tourist we don’t need. After a bit of a fuss an I think I heard him say “it’s a infraction” or something he mentioned cfa60,000 no way are we paying that so the fact our French is rubbish and he got bored meant that he said we can go but must visit the authorities in Mopti. We will see.
We arrive at Motel Savane which is quiet, we are the only visitors I think. We walked to town some 2km away and the locals found us amusing! Lots of staring and giggling as we pass by. In Segou we find the small port which handles mainly firewood and little else. Donkey carts line up waiting to take a load away. Quite a nice town and easy to walk around with no hassle. On the way back we stop for a beer and end up having what is probably the coldest beer so far in Africa and the best omelette we have ever had too. All from a little shack in a back street.
151 miles
Finally we leave the Sleeping Camel or the Camel Sleeping as the Malians call it and after doing a bit of shopping we head out of town and go to Segou some 150 miles away. Traffic was o.k. well o.k. for an African city and we manage to get out of town easily.
A few check points but no fuss until one guy asks us for insurance driving licence etc. etc. here we go again what next? Oh where is our “visite technique” Uh! Whats that. He means a Mali mot, which we haven’t got and as a tourist we don’t need. After a bit of a fuss an I think I heard him say “it’s a infraction” or something he mentioned cfa60,000 no way are we paying that so the fact our French is rubbish and he got bored meant that he said we can go but must visit the authorities in Mopti. We will see.
We arrive at Motel Savane which is quiet, we are the only visitors I think. We walked to town some 2km away and the locals found us amusing! Lots of staring and giggling as we pass by. In Segou we find the small port which handles mainly firewood and little else. Donkey carts line up waiting to take a load away. Quite a nice town and easy to walk around with no hassle. On the way back we stop for a beer and end up having what is probably the coldest beer so far in Africa and the best omelette we have ever had too. All from a little shack in a back street.
THUR 24TH NOV DAY 42 LE ENCAMPMENT, MOPTI (JUST OUTSIDE CITY WALLS ON THE RIGHT).
262 miles
A long drive to Mopti and we stay at the Encampment which is handily placed at the city walls. No camping for us (only if you have a ground tent) so we take a room and manage to negotiate him down from cfa20000 to cfa1000. A guide latched onto us and wanted to take us to Timbuktu and around but he took a polite no as an answer.
As we walk into town a couple of lads (ousmane and Guindo) offer to show us around and we agree after there well humoured banter wins us over. We see his shop of course! Then we see his boat! Oh that’s handy. Well after a bit of lunch and a chat we take a trip on Ousmanes boat or whoever owns the boat to see the confluence of the river Niger and Bani along with a tour of a boat yard where we see a guy making “cut” nails by hand . Who out there knows what a cut nail is? It was well worth while.
Tried at least 5 banks for some cash but none of them seem to be working so have to try in Djeene tomorrow.
If you fancy a boat ride or some help seeing Mopti try Ousmane on [email protected] (79102543) . Or his friend Guindo at [email protected] . Think those details are correct. Ousmane if you are reading this send me a message.
262 miles
A long drive to Mopti and we stay at the Encampment which is handily placed at the city walls. No camping for us (only if you have a ground tent) so we take a room and manage to negotiate him down from cfa20000 to cfa1000. A guide latched onto us and wanted to take us to Timbuktu and around but he took a polite no as an answer.
As we walk into town a couple of lads (ousmane and Guindo) offer to show us around and we agree after there well humoured banter wins us over. We see his shop of course! Then we see his boat! Oh that’s handy. Well after a bit of lunch and a chat we take a trip on Ousmanes boat or whoever owns the boat to see the confluence of the river Niger and Bani along with a tour of a boat yard where we see a guy making “cut” nails by hand . Who out there knows what a cut nail is? It was well worth while.
Tried at least 5 banks for some cash but none of them seem to be working so have to try in Djeene tomorrow.
If you fancy a boat ride or some help seeing Mopti try Ousmane on [email protected] (79102543) . Or his friend Guindo at [email protected] . Think those details are correct. Ousmane if you are reading this send me a message.
FRI 25TH DAY 43 BUSHCAMP ON ROAD FROM SAN TO BURKINA FASO
N 12 22.016 W 4 52.715
198 miles
Well our trip to Djeene was a non starter. We missed the turning by 50 miles probably too much rubber necking as we drove along, so decide to carry on towards Burkina Faso.
We camp some 30 miles from the border amongst the trees and sounds of goats and donkeys in the background. Pitch black tonight. Loads of people waving and smiling at us all seem very happy with life although they seem to have very little of what we would need to live.
Spag bol. For dinner.
SAT 26 TH NOV DAY 44 CASA AFRICA IN BOBO DIOULASSO, BURKINA FASO N 11 10.152 W4 18.705
114 miles. (Customs Mali n 12 09.7 w 4 46.8 Police Mali n 12 05.7 w 4 41.1)
Very quiet night just the usual cockerel waking us at four in the morning, they must still be in summer time.
A poor road yesterday improved after Yarosso and we find the Mali border which was very friendly and easy to negotiate. We shall miss Mali everyone was so happy and friendly, is you get a chance you must visit Mali. The Burkina Faso border was just as easy apart from having to tell the customs man how to fill in the carnet form! He obviously doesn’t see many.
More happy smiling kids along the way to Bobo and the scenery changes, we see hills for the firat time in ages and more cultivated fields along with much larger herds of cattle.
The Casa Africa was found only with the help of our gps as the Lonely Planet map was rubbish. A small camp with room for only 3 vehicles to camp although they do have rooms to rent.
Of to explore town tonight and try some local food.
MALI SUMMARY
Reasonably priced fuel and beer. Very friendly, happy and helpful people. Bamako is a bit manic but the sleeping camel is a safe haven to stay and collect your visas. Segou and Mopti well worth a visit and if you like hiking then go to Dogon country for a few days. Would both like to revisit and see more of the country.
114 miles. (Customs Mali n 12 09.7 w 4 46.8 Police Mali n 12 05.7 w 4 41.1)
Very quiet night just the usual cockerel waking us at four in the morning, they must still be in summer time.
A poor road yesterday improved after Yarosso and we find the Mali border which was very friendly and easy to negotiate. We shall miss Mali everyone was so happy and friendly, is you get a chance you must visit Mali. The Burkina Faso border was just as easy apart from having to tell the customs man how to fill in the carnet form! He obviously doesn’t see many.
More happy smiling kids along the way to Bobo and the scenery changes, we see hills for the firat time in ages and more cultivated fields along with much larger herds of cattle.
The Casa Africa was found only with the help of our gps as the Lonely Planet map was rubbish. A small camp with room for only 3 vehicles to camp although they do have rooms to rent.
Of to explore town tonight and try some local food.
MALI SUMMARY
Reasonably priced fuel and beer. Very friendly, happy and helpful people. Bamako is a bit manic but the sleeping camel is a safe haven to stay and collect your visas. Segou and Mopti well worth a visit and if you like hiking then go to Dogon country for a few days. Would both like to revisit and see more of the country.
SUN 27TH NOV DAY 45 AS ABOVE
5 miles
Ibrahim our guide arrives and we drive to town for our tour of Bobo. First the 18th century Mosque then the old city and we get to look around the first house built in Bobo. We were surprised that we could go into the Mosque especially Julie, but they seem quite relaxed about it. The central market was a shambles as expected but we find some fruit and veg. You have to buy whats available on the day not like Tesco where you have a dozen types of apple and oranges, it’s a case of whats in season that’s for sure.
Back at Casa Africa for a rest in the afternoon, tomorrow we go to Banfora to see a lake and some waterfalls.
5 miles
Ibrahim our guide arrives and we drive to town for our tour of Bobo. First the 18th century Mosque then the old city and we get to look around the first house built in Bobo. We were surprised that we could go into the Mosque especially Julie, but they seem quite relaxed about it. The central market was a shambles as expected but we find some fruit and veg. You have to buy whats available on the day not like Tesco where you have a dozen types of apple and oranges, it’s a case of whats in season that’s for sure.
Back at Casa Africa for a rest in the afternoon, tomorrow we go to Banfora to see a lake and some waterfalls.
MON 28TH NOV DAY 46 HOTEL O.K. INN, OUAGADOUGOU (Waga)
12 20.12 W 1 30.84
242 miles
Last night the overland truck that we last saw in Bamako Mali arrived to take over the camp. Funny but they all seemed a bit quiet and we noticed a few less people in the group, anyway we watched aa good bit of team work as they set up camp and cooked dinner, all very organised.
In Ouga. We arrive at the O.K.Inn hotel were we can camp for free if we eat a meal in the hotel. Got a massive fine on the way for going through a red light. Yes it was red but the policeman put the money in his pocket which makes it worse.
12 20.12 W 1 30.84
242 miles
Last night the overland truck that we last saw in Bamako Mali arrived to take over the camp. Funny but they all seemed a bit quiet and we noticed a few less people in the group, anyway we watched aa good bit of team work as they set up camp and cooked dinner, all very organised.
In Ouga. We arrive at the O.K.Inn hotel were we can camp for free if we eat a meal in the hotel. Got a massive fine on the way for going through a red light. Yes it was red but the policeman put the money in his pocket which makes it worse.