Zebras wondering around in camp
SUN 29TH JAN DAY 108 MAMA RULAS CHIPATA, ZAMBIA
S13 34.92 E32 36.59
100 Miles
Only 100 miles from Lilongwe in Malawi to Chipata in Zambia where we stayed at Mama Rulas again. Border crossing was the easiest yet got through in half an hour or so, helped by the fact that all the lorries were parked up. Maybe they cannot travel on a Sunday?
Travelling back through Zambia to get to Botswana then South Africa to avoid Mozambique and Zimbabwe although people that we have met say that Zimbabwe has been fine. We have to back track a bit but plan to visit the eastern part of Lake Kariba .
S13 34.92 E32 36.59
100 Miles
Only 100 miles from Lilongwe in Malawi to Chipata in Zambia where we stayed at Mama Rulas again. Border crossing was the easiest yet got through in half an hour or so, helped by the fact that all the lorries were parked up. Maybe they cannot travel on a Sunday?
Travelling back through Zambia to get to Botswana then South Africa to avoid Mozambique and Zimbabwe although people that we have met say that Zimbabwe has been fine. We have to back track a bit but plan to visit the eastern part of Lake Kariba .
Mmmm shephards pie and peas
MON 30TH JAN DAY 109 BRIDGE CAMP, LUANGWA S15 00.309 E30 12.902
226 miles
Watched Zambia beat Guinea Bissau in the African Nations Cup, a rubbish game really but the locals are very happy about qualifying.
Maybe the rainy season has finished? We have another lovely sunny day as we drive to Bridge Camp next to the Luangwa River, the only camp between Chipata and Lusaka apsrt from the grotty Zulu Kraal.
Lovely drive over the rolling hills which are covered with tress and bishes, no farming around this part although there are lots of people selling mushrooms which look o.k. but not something to chance.
Bridge camp has a great setting overlooking the river and is ideally sited halfway between Chipata and Lusaka but needs some work done on it to bring it up to scratch, the camp site is tiny and the chalets scruffy. We meet Lindsay and Will the owners who say the place is up for sale if you are interested?
I find out that Lindsey is from Arundel just along the road from my home town and she knows several of my old customers, small world.
Enjoyed a couple of beers watching the sun set and they told us of many stories about African life, an eye opener about NGO groups too.
Had a 10 minute warning that the generator was being switched of so it was a rush to our tent.
226 miles
Watched Zambia beat Guinea Bissau in the African Nations Cup, a rubbish game really but the locals are very happy about qualifying.
Maybe the rainy season has finished? We have another lovely sunny day as we drive to Bridge Camp next to the Luangwa River, the only camp between Chipata and Lusaka apsrt from the grotty Zulu Kraal.
Lovely drive over the rolling hills which are covered with tress and bishes, no farming around this part although there are lots of people selling mushrooms which look o.k. but not something to chance.
Bridge camp has a great setting overlooking the river and is ideally sited halfway between Chipata and Lusaka but needs some work done on it to bring it up to scratch, the camp site is tiny and the chalets scruffy. We meet Lindsay and Will the owners who say the place is up for sale if you are interested?
I find out that Lindsey is from Arundel just along the road from my home town and she knows several of my old customers, small world.
Enjoyed a couple of beers watching the sun set and they told us of many stories about African life, an eye opener about NGO groups too.
Had a 10 minute warning that the generator was being switched of so it was a rush to our tent.
Sort out time again
TUE 31ST JAN DAY 110 EUREKA CAMP S. OF LUSAKA
S15 30.210 E28 15.911
163 MILES
On our way to Lusaka we passed 3 very old trucks full of charcoal and all three had broken down! More mad bus drivers and a few more lorries overturned on sharp bends.
Sopping in Lusaka and lunch, fish and chips great. Passed a “tetsefly” control check point and the guy stopped us, brought a net out to us and asked if we had any flies in the vehicle…..no…..o.k. of you go. I jest not. I can imagine the tetse flies coming up to the barrier and saying “oh no it’s a control point we can’t pass here!!!
Eureka camp is a lovely site a few km. south of Lusaka on a farm. Electric, clean showers,bar pool etc. all on well maintained lawns.
An overland truck arrived an hour after us and we watched with interest as they decanted from the truck setting up there tents around the site. One couple pitched within 8m of us. Later a couple in a Landcruiser arrive and hunt for a suitable site, we find out that they have travelled from Europe and are heading for Cape Town also. We promise to have a chat before we leave in the morning.
S15 30.210 E28 15.911
163 MILES
On our way to Lusaka we passed 3 very old trucks full of charcoal and all three had broken down! More mad bus drivers and a few more lorries overturned on sharp bends.
Sopping in Lusaka and lunch, fish and chips great. Passed a “tetsefly” control check point and the guy stopped us, brought a net out to us and asked if we had any flies in the vehicle…..no…..o.k. of you go. I jest not. I can imagine the tetse flies coming up to the barrier and saying “oh no it’s a control point we can’t pass here!!!
Eureka camp is a lovely site a few km. south of Lusaka on a farm. Electric, clean showers,bar pool etc. all on well maintained lawns.
An overland truck arrived an hour after us and we watched with interest as they decanted from the truck setting up there tents around the site. One couple pitched within 8m of us. Later a couple in a Landcruiser arrive and hunt for a suitable site, we find out that they have travelled from Europe and are heading for Cape Town also. We promise to have a chat before we leave in the morning.
View from Bridge Camp. Not the nicest place to stay but great location.
WED 1ST FEB DAY 111 EAGLES NEST RESORT LAKE KARIBA
S16 32.221 E28 43.660
115 miles
Good nights sleep and woke with the sun shining in the tent and the sound of overlanders breaking camp. These youngsters don’t look quite so clever at 7a.m.
Had a chat with Waldu and Nichole the South African and an Australlian that we met last night. Swapped some useful information on places to stay and what to see, they paint a very nice picture of South Africa, think we may be there some time.
They had a nightmare shipping from Italy to Kenya (because of the problems in north Africa) much worse than we had. Maybe we will meet in South Africa again as they plan to travel down the west coast when we plan to travel up the west coast.
Left Eureka camp heading for Siavonga on lake Kariba. Once we turned of the main road and headed towards the Zimbabwe border post we came across many overloaded lorries grinding there way up the hills. We smelt that distinctive smell of burning metal and just around the corner a lorry is crawling along with smoke pouring from his rear wheels! He just carries on, maybe hoping to get to the border.
Arrive at Eagles Nest which involved a few km. of horrendous dirt road to reach. Lovely place on lake Kariba, time for a couple of nights to chill we think.
S16 32.221 E28 43.660
115 miles
Good nights sleep and woke with the sun shining in the tent and the sound of overlanders breaking camp. These youngsters don’t look quite so clever at 7a.m.
Had a chat with Waldu and Nichole the South African and an Australlian that we met last night. Swapped some useful information on places to stay and what to see, they paint a very nice picture of South Africa, think we may be there some time.
They had a nightmare shipping from Italy to Kenya (because of the problems in north Africa) much worse than we had. Maybe we will meet in South Africa again as they plan to travel down the west coast when we plan to travel up the west coast.
Left Eureka camp heading for Siavonga on lake Kariba. Once we turned of the main road and headed towards the Zimbabwe border post we came across many overloaded lorries grinding there way up the hills. We smelt that distinctive smell of burning metal and just around the corner a lorry is crawling along with smoke pouring from his rear wheels! He just carries on, maybe hoping to get to the border.
Arrive at Eagles Nest which involved a few km. of horrendous dirt road to reach. Lovely place on lake Kariba, time for a couple of nights to chill we think.
Charcoal being sole throughout Zambia
THURS 2ND FEB DAY 112 AS ABOVE
O miles
Rest what rest. We have spent the morning spring cleaning, washing and I changed the fuel filter which had a worrying moment when I started the engine. It started spluttered and finally came to life..thats the air purged then.
Last night we chatted with a couple of white locals talking about how Zambia is making a recovery now that the new president is stamping out corruption or trying to. More foreign companies are investing in Zambia now that its not the risk of the old days. They look across Lake Kariba and tell us how great it was before a certain president ruined the place.
Chill time in the afternoon.
O miles
Rest what rest. We have spent the morning spring cleaning, washing and I changed the fuel filter which had a worrying moment when I started the engine. It started spluttered and finally came to life..thats the air purged then.
Last night we chatted with a couple of white locals talking about how Zambia is making a recovery now that the new president is stamping out corruption or trying to. More foreign companies are investing in Zambia now that its not the risk of the old days. They look across Lake Kariba and tell us how great it was before a certain president ruined the place.
Chill time in the afternoon.
Another lorry overturned. They are almost as bad as the Zambian bus drivers
FRI 3RD FEB DAY 113 THE MOORINGS.
164 miles
Up at 6.30 and good job we did too as it was really hot and humid as we packed the tent away. They say February is suicide month in the Zambezi valley and we can see why. Left camp before 8.00 and crawled the first few kilometres over the poor dirt track.
Back on the main road we head inland away from the Zimbabwe border, we have been within a stones throw of Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Angola a few times on this trip. The lorries crawl up and down the hills struggling in the heat the road has a continuous oil line running up the middle but today we didn’t see any broken down trucks.
Arrive at the Moorings camp where we stayed over two weeks ago on the way up country to be met by that pesky cat and the sound of thunder in the background. Think a bucket of water will see the cat off soon!
Amazing how the weather changed from leaving the Lake to arriving in camp only 160 odd miles away, still no rain (yet).
Tomorrow we go back to Livingstone and then its on to Botswana after that.
164 miles
Up at 6.30 and good job we did too as it was really hot and humid as we packed the tent away. They say February is suicide month in the Zambezi valley and we can see why. Left camp before 8.00 and crawled the first few kilometres over the poor dirt track.
Back on the main road we head inland away from the Zimbabwe border, we have been within a stones throw of Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Angola a few times on this trip. The lorries crawl up and down the hills struggling in the heat the road has a continuous oil line running up the middle but today we didn’t see any broken down trucks.
Arrive at the Moorings camp where we stayed over two weeks ago on the way up country to be met by that pesky cat and the sound of thunder in the background. Think a bucket of water will see the cat off soon!
Amazing how the weather changed from leaving the Lake to arriving in camp only 160 odd miles away, still no rain (yet).
Tomorrow we go back to Livingstone and then its on to Botswana after that.
Eagles Rest camp. Lake Kariba.
SAT 4TH FEB DAY 114 JOLLYBOYS BACKPACKERS CAMP LIVINGSTONE S17 51.288 E25 51.718
201 miles
A German vehicle turned up after we went to bed and they had left before we got up, maybe we are spending to much time in bed? Good news is that someone left a very nice head torch in the showers which is just as well as one of ours had packed up.
Left at 8 ish and got to Livingstone early afternoon after visiting Foleys garage to book the Landy in for a check over on Tuesday, drove through a fantastic electrical storm on the way, lightening all around us. Just as it starts we both want to go to the loo….must be all that water around, got drenched.
Jollyboys site is 10 minute walk from town and has a nice feel about it. Saw Zambia beat Sudan in the Africans Cup, the locals went wild. After the match we saw England scrape a win at Murrayfield, a win is a win as they say. Wouldn’t have known that it was on but the camp manageress is Australian and she mentioned it.
201 miles
A German vehicle turned up after we went to bed and they had left before we got up, maybe we are spending to much time in bed? Good news is that someone left a very nice head torch in the showers which is just as well as one of ours had packed up.
Left at 8 ish and got to Livingstone early afternoon after visiting Foleys garage to book the Landy in for a check over on Tuesday, drove through a fantastic electrical storm on the way, lightening all around us. Just as it starts we both want to go to the loo….must be all that water around, got drenched.
Jollyboys site is 10 minute walk from town and has a nice feel about it. Saw Zambia beat Sudan in the Africans Cup, the locals went wild. After the match we saw England scrape a win at Murrayfield, a win is a win as they say. Wouldn’t have known that it was on but the camp manageress is Australian and she mentioned it.
SUN 5TH FEB DAY 115 AS ABOVE
O miles
Not much happening today, a couple of German bikers arrived so will have to compare notes with them sometime. Lazy day in camp.
Zambia loves premier league football as does every other country we have been to so no surprise that Chelsea V Man utd. was on the t.v. once again the referee spoils a good match. And Chelsea are robbed buy two dodgy penalty decisions.
O miles
Not much happening today, a couple of German bikers arrived so will have to compare notes with them sometime. Lazy day in camp.
Zambia loves premier league football as does every other country we have been to so no surprise that Chelsea V Man utd. was on the t.v. once again the referee spoils a good match. And Chelsea are robbed buy two dodgy penalty decisions.
The Landy having a check at Foleys Africa
MON 6TH FEB DAY 116 AS ABOVE
O miles
Filtered some water and tried to put some air into the tyres but the wonderful compressor is playing up, it wasn’t a cheap unit so its very disappointing, maybe we should find a manual pump just incase?
Went for a long walk to the railway museum in Livingstone in the heat of the day only to find when we got there that the price was US$15 each and for locals 6000k (less than US$1). We expect to pay a premium but over 15 times is a bit much. Hence we gave it a miss. Had lunch on the way back a very nice one too. The rain came down again and everything stops for a while, then it stops and people carry on like nothing has happened.
Ready to go now, tomorrow at eleven we have the Landy booked in and hopefully nothing is wrong then we will go to Botswana and plan to camp at Chobe Safari Lodge where we stayed over 10 years ago. Will anything have changed?
O miles
Filtered some water and tried to put some air into the tyres but the wonderful compressor is playing up, it wasn’t a cheap unit so its very disappointing, maybe we should find a manual pump just incase?
Went for a long walk to the railway museum in Livingstone in the heat of the day only to find when we got there that the price was US$15 each and for locals 6000k (less than US$1). We expect to pay a premium but over 15 times is a bit much. Hence we gave it a miss. Had lunch on the way back a very nice one too. The rain came down again and everything stops for a while, then it stops and people carry on like nothing has happened.
Ready to go now, tomorrow at eleven we have the Landy booked in and hopefully nothing is wrong then we will go to Botswana and plan to camp at Chobe Safari Lodge where we stayed over 10 years ago. Will anything have changed?